Of an immigrant non-b visa, that is.
As you may have heard, Amanda and I are heading to Bangkok. The cause of the move is new jobs and new opportunities. The result is needing new visas. Every time you get a new job in Thailand, you have to assemble a mountain of red-tape paperwork, cross the country's boarder, enter a different nation, and apply for a new visa.
I got a job teaching Anuban at Ek Burapa in MinBuri, Thailand. MinBuri is a suburb of Bangkok proper and is about a 34km (21mi) drive to the heart of the city. As an equivalence, we're about 21 miles from the heart of the Washington, D.C. of Thailand.
In true Thai style, this means a new pile of paperwork and another visa run. Luckily, my new school was very accommodating with my new paperwork. They did all of it for me. All of it. If anyone has ever gotten a mortgage through conventional underwriting since the changes made around 2009, you'll know what that stack of disclosures looks like. That's what a non-b visa application looks like. And just like in mortgage underwriting, one mistake and you get the big, old REJECT.
On the evening of Wednesday, August 21st, Amanda and I got back from possibly the worst school trip ever. The result of no planning and no communication in English meant that instead of getting back promptly at 2pm, we got back closer to 5pm. I was planning on crossing the boarder that night, so I jumped on the moped and made my way to the bus station. Unfortunately, I had already missed the last bus, so I met up with Roxi and Amanda for sticks and banana pancakes for dinner. It was actually really nice to see Roxi and relax after such a long 3 days from home.
We went home after dinner and I got up early the next morning. I shot straight to the bus station and found out that I needed a Laos visa in order to take a bus. I needed to take a tuk tuk to the border and cross the old fashioned way: by horrifically sketchy bus.
Now this process is not one to be rushed. It's intimidating and you should really allow yourself about 2-3 hours to get from Nong Khai to Vientiane (the capital city of Laos). I got moving around 6:30am and finally got a tuk tuk to the border at 7:15am. I arrived at the edge of Thailand around 7:40am. My appointment was at 9am.
I was approached by a man before the boarder who said he could get me to the Thai consulate before my appointment for 1500B (50USD). I laughed and kept walking saying 'no thank you' (mai pen rai) and 'too expensive' (pheng kien pie).
Thai people really perk up when they notice you're trying to butcher their language and don't you worry, I BUTCHER THE THAI LANGUAGE. Roxi will verify this. I was saying 'no thank you' wrong for three months.
He continued following me and was now chittering in Thai. Like my students, I know when someone is asking questions and I can look at a face for the correct response. It also helps that the Thai language phrases questions that require a yes/no response in the following form:
"Statement." "Yes/No?"
For instance, at a restaurant, a server might ask "phet chai mai?"
Phet: spicy
Chai: yes
Mai: no
It makes this difficult, tonal language just a tiny bit easier.
He was joking with me about price. Luckily, bartering here is similar to how it works in Mexico. He said 1500, I countered with 500, and we settled on 800.
Now normally this would be super expensive, but I was a girl on a mission and I had less than 90 minutes and that included a 30 minute drive. Off we went. First through Thai exit immigration, onto a very sketchy bus where I was quite literally OUTSIDE the bus holding onto a metal bar with my left hand and a little girl's hand with my right, (She looked very nervous for me and offered me her hand. It was 0% reassuring to me to hold a 4 year old Thai girl's hand, but she was cute and the sentiment was appreciated.), and then through Laos entrance immigration. It costs 1600B (52USD) to get into Laos as an American. Then Jip (pronounced Gee and then close your lips like you're making the letter p but WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T PRONOUNCE THE LAST CONSONANT SOUND OF A THAI WORD.) put me into his van (yes Mom, I got into a van with a complete stranger. The number of times I should have been killed here is fascinating. I have no idea how I'm still alive.) and off we went.
His English was bad. My Thai is horrific. It actually makes for amusing conversation because you can only talk about very limited topics in either language. The time passed quickly and he dropped me off right in front of the Thai Royal Consulate at 8:35am.
Myself and some others in line chatted aimlessly for the next 25 minutes waiting for the consulate to open, but in true Thai style, it didn't actually open until 9:30am.
The paperwork at the Thai Consulate went very quickly. They needed a slightly different photo and a copy of my work permit which were acquired for 150B. Then I was off. The paperwork was out of my hands and all I had to do was chill in the capital city of Laos for 29 hours until I could pick my passport back up.
I headed to a coffee shop (for some much required caffeine internet as my Thai sim card didn't work in Laos) and looked up where some hostels in the city were. Also, for good measure, I looked up some fun, walking-distance locations.
Walking off in the direction of the first hostel on my list, I made rather a b-line. It was already muggy and over 100 degrees outside and it wasn't even 11am. I needed food, water, and my backpack not on my back. The map ended up not being as accurate as I thought it was going to be and I ended up wandering aimlessly for about 2 miles before I found the TINIEST little vertical building with the right name on the front.
I promise I'll add photos later, but I'm blogging on Amanda's computer as mine acts as a Netflix device.
**Change of heart about an hour later. I don't think Amanda is going to mind some extra photos in her computer.
If she has complaints she can put them in these provided brackets:
[[ ... ]]
I walked into the building and was immediately at home.
It was a cafe.
This was the toilet!
I walked to the back and asked for a room. 250B for a shared bunk and 250B for a deposit. That's 16USD for both a bed for a night, unlimited hot water, air conditioning, access to Wifi, and the promise that so long as I was respectful and clean, I'd get 8$ back the next day.
That's a deal if I've ever heard of one.
I checked out my bunk: the upper loft in a 10'x10' room with 2 other bunk beds. I noted that the girl directly under me was the girl who stood 2 people in front of me in line at the consulate. She was working quietly on a laptop with headphones in so I organized my things, grabbed my small pack, and went off to explore the city.
Due to the fact that there were always people in the room, I felt it disrespectful to take pictures. So there are no pictures of the room outside my mind.
However, here is one of the courtyard:
And another of the balcony:
And for good measure, one of the HORRIFYING construction two streets over:
In the wise words of Thailand:
Safty. First.
That hurts every time I type it.
I went walking until I saw an art gallery. It's the brown building behind the green building.
Turns out it was just a store that sold kichy items. I got about a quarter of my way through the place and found the cutest carved elephant for Amanda before a woman bustled her way up to me shouting "pay to look. 50,000 kip to look!" (50,000K = 5.75USD) That's a lot of money for Laos. That would buy me a fancy coffee AND a fancy sandwich at an air conditioned bistro and she was certainly not yelling the same thing at the Lao man who walked in two minutes before me as I was looking at the outside of the "store".
I looked at her, held up the small elephant, (which was more money than she was asking for me to stay) and said "buy" ('suh' in Thai and Thai is about 70% similar to Lao according to the front desk guy at my hostel). She shook her head and said "50,000 kip to look. Then buy!"
I laughed at her, put down the elephant, laughed, and walked out.
I kept wandering until I got to what I wanted my destination to be: the Laos History Museum. Online, reviews said that most of it was translated to English!
When I got there, I found it to be true! The sign on the front saying "we've moved but we haven't opened our new location" was indeed in English.
:(
So I took some pictures of a different building and kept moving:
Next I found the Laos National Opera Theater!
Do you see how the front door is open?
Do you think I was able to resist that?
You're correct. The answer was no.
You better bet I got up on that stage and sang my favorite French tune: Nuit d'etoiles by Debussy.
A woman I did not see when entering the building stepped out of a side room by the entrance, clapped, and nodded me toward the door. I smiled and left. My work there was done. She clapped. I believe that makes me an international performer?
Don't question this.
Let me have my moment.
I kept walking, found the presidential palace, the US Embassy (I had some questions regarding my passport but they weren't open... sigh), and Patuxai.
Patuxai is a victory monument for all the people who fought for Laos independence from France in the late 1950's and early 1960's. If you want to read more about it,
click here!
Otherwise, have some pictures:
From far away, it looks majestic. From close in, you can tell they've put 0 effort into the upkeep and they actually acknowledge that with a large sign inside.
On the bright side, it's 7 stories high and you can climb them.
Guess what I did next?
I walked around the rest of the park.
But then afterwards, I came back and explored all seven stories!
It was majorly cool. And there was a giant rainstorm while I was inside that I managed to avoid by looking at trinkets for sale.
I continued on my mission to the first ever temple built in historic Vientiane.
For years, monks and civilians had been restoring the temple using modern tools and bricks, but about 75 years ago, the city made the decision to stop making repairs on the stupa and let it become "one with nature" according to the sign posted nearby.
At this point, I was exhausted and also hadn't eaten since dinner on Wednesday and drank any water since ... dinner on Wednesday. I'd also walked about 13km (according to my fitness app that doesn't register on Pokemon Go. So no, I got no eggs hatched during this time. Sigh.).
I headed back to the hostel and brought my grand walk total up to 13.8km (8.6mi).
I got back and hopped into the NICEST SHOWER I've ever experienced in a hotel, let alone a hostel. There were people and again with the respect and pictures angle, I shall not be providing them. But they're locked in my memory and it was my 2nd hot shower in Asia. I was very happy.
Back on the ground floor and squeaky clean, I had my headphones, The Sawbones Book, and very sore feet.
I ordered a pot of Earl Grey tea and a salmon salad, sat back, threw on my Youtube mix, and read my book until the coffee shop closed at 8pm.
**Completely unrelated side note: my WSU Mac laptop finally died. I cannot recover it and will need someone much smarter than me to hopefully get it back to functional (also materials and the ability to communicate with someone who can sell them to me... that's the biggest issue).
However, for now, I've lost my iTunes library AND all my audiobooks. It's a DISASTER because I also had to wipe my phone when I was having phone issues. Goodbye, audiobooks. Goodbye, gigs of torrented music. Goodbye, moon. **
And back to the story at hand:
I went up to bed and settled into my bunk. It had fantastic blackout curtains and everyone in the room was very respectful of noise levels. You could have heard a pin drop and there were 6 adult women in a 10'x10' room!
I read for an hour or so before falling asleep.
The next morning I awoke to one of the other lady's alarms. Due to the grumbling I heard from around me, the other four were also not happy about an alarm being snoozed five times at 6:30am. This got most of the other people up and moving.
I don't know if anyone reading this blog has seen me voluntarily out of bed before 9am, but it's literally unheard of.
I went back to sleep and got up at 10:30am to an empty room. It was glorious.
Pickup time for visas was starting at 1:30pm. Checkout was noon.
I checked out about 11am and ordered breakfast from the coffee shop. It was free because I stayed the night before. It was included in the extravagant 8USD I spent on the room.
The options were Lao breakfast or cereal and I crossed my fingers for unsweetened milk and was rewarded!
I walked back to the Thai consulate. The only entertaining thing on my walk was being bit by a dog. No, it didn't break the skin. I don't think I'm rabid - yet!
I arrived and realized I was a whopping 90 minutes early for the 1:30pm pickup. I pulled out a deck of cards and started playing solitaire. Then a man came out from the consulate and asked to see my cards. He read my fortune in the cards. His English was decent: definitely not good, but better than my Thai. Apparently his mother is a fortune teller.
He then left to find some lunch and came back when I was on my 3rd game of solitaire. His game was definitely not improved after half a sandwich. He proceeded to ask me out.
More literally, he asked me to say with him in Vientiane for the night and he would show me the city. The conversation was as follows:
Thai Man: "You stay night. I show you city."
Me: "No thank you."
TM: "What name?"
M: "Genie"
TM: "J-i-n-i?"
M: "Yes."
TM: "You have boyfriend?"
M: "No."
TM: "You have husband?"
M: "No."
TM: "Then you stay here. You get visa?"
M: "I do not know yet. I am waiting for visa at 1:30."
TM: "I will see if you approve. Then you stay with me?"
M: "No, thank you."
TM: "Name Jini. I check. Then girlfriend."
M: "No, thank you. Mai pen rai."
TM: "You say no husband. I to be boyfriend."
M: *now frustrated* "No. Mai."
TM: "But you say no husband."
Me: *pulls out phone*
Me: *pulls up most adorable picture I possess of myself and Amanda*
Me: *shows him phone*
Me: "No husband. Girlfriend."
TM: "Good picture. Friend?"
Me: *actively frustrated*
Me: *spots girl who was in the bunk below me walking up to the consulate*
Me: "Picture. Wife. No husband. Wife."
Me: *gathers cards very quickly and excitedly walks up to complete stranger I've seen around Vientiane about 4 times over the past day*
Me: *sends wishes to every diety I don't believe in that this girl speaks English as well as a pale ginger stereotypically should*
Me: *speaks as quickly as I can while approaching a complete stranger*
Me: "OMG! How are yo-- please pretend to be my friend this man is scaring me and I do not want to continue talking to him-- I haven't seen you in forever, I didn't realize you were doing a visa trip!"
Her name turned out to be Rachel and we ended up chatting well past when TM went back into the consulate. I don't even know if she heard what I was saying as I walked up to her, but the lady code was at its strongest that afternoon.
Rachel and I made our way through the visa line when the consulate opened, late, around 2pm. I got my visa and she got hers. She's working at a university in Chang Mai. We ended up splitting a van back to Nong Khai and having a glorious chat. We both agreed that if we were in each other's cities, we would hit the other up for a free place to stay. We also saw two herds of cows cross the road, a lost goat standing in an intersection, and a woman driving a moped with a handful of dead chickens swinging from the hand that she didn't need for the accelerator. It was quite the drive.
I got back into Nong Khai around 3pm on Friday afternoon.
All together, it was an incredibly successful visa trip. A special shout out to my new HR department for perfect paperwork, a wonderful hostel, my gym shoes that have gone through more than they ever deserved, Rachel, and the lost goat.